張岱 閔老子茶

張岱與茶

張岱(1597—1679年)，字宗子，石公，號陶庵，山陰(今浙江紹興)人，僑居杭州。張岱是明末清初的 文學家、史學家，以散文見長。 　　同時，他還是一位精於茶藝茶道之人。 　　張岱出身仕宦之家，曾漫遊蘇、浙、魯 、皖等地區，家裏藏書豐贍，自30歲左右，即鑽研明史。明亡後，披髮入山，靜心著書。其著名的著作有《石匱書》 、《 琅環文集》、《陶庵夢記》、《西湖夢尋》、《夜航船》等。在他的許多著作中，記述了不少生動的茶事。有如“閔老子茶” 詳盡記錄了張岱與閔汶水的品茶辨泉的經過: 　　1638年9月的一天，張岱專程來到閔汶水家，說: “今日不暢飲汶老茶，決不回 去”。汶水非常高興，立即起爐煮茶，並且把張貸帶到一間窗明几淨的房裏，用荊溪壺，成宣窯瓷招待。 　　張岱問:“此茶 産於何處?” 　　汶水說:“這是閬苑茶”。 　　張岱又品一口，說:“汶老別哄我，這茶是閬苑的制法， 但滋味 卻不像!” 　　閔汶水微微一笑，說:“那麽你說是什麽茶?” 　　張岱再品之，說:“極似羅岕茶”。 　　閔汶水驚曰:“ 奇、奇!”。 　　張岱又問水是何水。閔汶水說:“惠泉”。張岱又說:“別哄我，惠泉在千里之外，何能鮮爽不損”。 　　汶水對張 岱的精鑒連連稱奇，抽身而去，不一會兒，又持一壺滿斟，遞給張岱。張岱評鑒道:“此茶香烈味醇，乃春茶也， 剛才喝的是秋 茶”。 　　閔汶水大笑，說: “我年已七十，所見精鑒茶水者， 沒有人能超過你!” 　　通過這次品茶，張岱與閔汶水結爲 了好友。 　　張岱不僅善於品茶，而且還鑽研制茶。他通過招募安徽歙人，引入松蘿茶制法，對家鄉的日鑄茶進行改制，採用 多種手法，促進日鑄茶品質的改善，同時，對沖泡用水進行選擇。經張岱的改制，沖泡出來的茶，色如新竹，香如素蘭，湯 如雪濤，清亮宜人。他把此茶命名爲“蘭雪”茶。四五年後，蘭雪茶風靡茶市，紹興的飲茶者，多用此，後來，就連松蘿茶也 改名“蘭雪”了。 　　此外，張岱在探訪名泉、申述茶理，鑒別茶具上都有獨到之處，因而，張岱可謂是一個茶 道專家。

取自 中國茶情網

(hc隨便斷句 改餘/余)

閔老子茶

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

　　周墨農向余道閔汶水茶不置口。戊寅九月至留都，抵岸，即訪閔汶水於桃葉渡。

日 晡，汶水他出，遲其歸，乃婆娑一老。方敘話，遽起曰：“杖忘某所。”又去。

余曰： “今日豈可空去？”遲之又久，汶水返，更定矣。睨余曰：“客尚在耶！客在奚為者？” 余曰：“慕汶老久，今日不暢飲汶老茶，決不去。”

汶水喜，自起當爐。茶旋煮，速如風雨。導至一室，明窗淨兒，荊溪壺、成宣窯磁 甌十餘種，皆精絕。燈下視茶色，與磁甌無別，而香氣逼人，余叫絕。余問汶水曰： “此茶何產？”

汶水曰：“閬苑茶也。”余再啜之，曰：“莫紿余！是閬苑制法，而味不似。”

汶水匿笑曰：“客知是何產？”

余再啜之，曰： “何其似羅岕甚也？”汶水吐舌曰：“奇，奇！”

余問：“水何水？”

曰：“惠泉。”

余又曰：“莫紿余！惠泉走千里，水勞而圭角不動，何也？”

汶水曰：“不復敢隱。其取惠水，必淘井，靜夜候新泉至，旋汲之。山石磊磊藉瓮

底，舟非風則勿行，放水之生磊。即尋常惠水猶遜一頭地，況他耶！”

又吐舌曰： “奇，奇！”言未畢，汶水去。
少頃，持一壺滿斟餘曰：“客啜此。”余曰：“香撲烈， 味甚渾厚，此春茶耶？向瀹者的是秋采。”

汶水大笑曰： “余年七十，精賞鑒者，無客比。”遂定交。

Elderly Min Tea

Chou Me-Nong bragged about Min Vin-sui's tea to me over and over.

In the ninth month of 1638, I went to the City of Liu. After landing, I visited Min Vin-sui at Peach Leave Ferry. It was afternoon, and Vin-sui was out. He came back late, and I saw a grumpy old man. No sooner than introduction, he suddently exclaimed "I forgot my cane at some one's home !" then out he went. I said to myself " I cannot afford to waste a whole day". I called again. When Vin-sui returned, it was already evening.

He glanced at me, and said "Is the guest still here ? What are you here for?" "I have long heard your reputation, I will not leave here unless I get to drink Vin-sui tea" I replied. Vin-sui was pleased, and set up stove and brew tea himself, as swiftly as wind and storm. He led me into a room with bright windows and clean desk and filled with Thorn Brook tea pots and Chen Shuen Kiln porcelain cups. What an exquisite collection! Under the lamplight, the color of tea looked the same as the porcelain cups, but the tea had an aggressive aroma, I exclaimed with amazement and ask Vin-sui "Where do you obtained this tea?"

"It was from the Garden of Liang" he replied. I sipped again, and said "Don't fool me, this tea was indeed made according to Liang Garden recipe, but it doesn't tasted so" "Do you know where the tea was from?" asked Vin-sui, hiding his smile. I sipped again, and said "How come it tasted so much like Lu Gie tea?" "Odd, odd!" said Vin-sui, sticking out his tongue. I ask Vin-sui what kind of water he used.

"Hui Spring water" "Don't fool me, Hui Spring water travelled thousands of miles how come the water moves but not the pebbles?" "I am not going to hide the truth any more. When one fetch Hui Spring water one must dig a well, and wait in a silent night for new water to arrive, then bucket it up quickly. Mountain pebbles would line the bottom of the jar. A boat will not move without the wind, so still water creates no pebbles......"

" Odd, odd!" said he, sticking out his tongue. No sooner he uttered this words, out he went. He soon returned with a kettle and pour me a full cup of tea, and said "please try this" "It has an intense aroma and rich taste. Is this spring tea? The one I tasted before was Autumn pick" Vin-sui laughed heartily and said "In seventy years of my life, I have never met a single connoisseur like you!" We became friends.

From Book III, "Dream and Remininscence of Tao An" , translated by Gisling