2010年3月31日 星期三

「XX」是茶/ 鎌倉 大佛茶廊

307

圈圈 XX,「OO」是 food 食物,

「XX」是茶。

這是在台南縣奇美博物館附近。

取材

有趣的招牌

http://yifertw.blogspot.com/2010/03/blog-post_31.html


PHOTO



 これはどういう事だろう?
 帝国ホテルや、ニューオータニのラウンジじゃないんだから。

and more 「Yokohama Note」 鎌倉 大佛
By and more
今は廊として保存されています。 なんの時だったっか、無料開放をしていた時があって、その時は抹茶を500円くらいで提供してくれていたのだけれども、今日改めて門前を通りかかったので、掲げられていたメニューをのぞきこんで驚いた。 ...


2010年3月29日 星期一

茶人 張宏庸


ちゃじん 【茶人】

    • 補足説明「さじん」とも
    • (1)茶の湯にたずさわる人。茶道に明るい人。
    • (2)風流な人。また、浮き世ばなれのした、一風変わった人。ものずき。


  • ◆アクセント : ちゃじん 0


--2007/10/19

幾年前我利用網路資料 寫二三十位譯人


現在興之所至 如法search 一番

茶人 張宏庸

張宏庸「両拍研究」(台北,国立台湾大学中国文学研究所修士論文,1975年)

美語風情話 805.18/8363(2)  Joan McConnell 張宏庸譯 幼獅 1991

『陸羽全集』茶学文庫〇〇 張宏庸輯校 茶学文学出版社 民国74 1985

張宏庸陸羽研究資料彙編

張宏庸著《茶藝》華夏之美系列-(幼獅1991再版/159/張宏庸著/精裝本/參考原價450)

臺灣傳統茶藝文化 974.8/8724  張宏庸著  漢光文化 1999 

台湾茶芸発展史-台湾民俗芸術(3)(P), 張宏庸 , 晨星出版社, 2002,

大安2003張宏庸:

陸羽書錄

陸羽茶經叢刊 張宏庸/

陸羽圖錄

台湾茶広告百年(P), 張宏庸 , 遠足文化, 2005,

2010年3月27日 星期六

mate/ マテ茶

「有機マテ(小袋&ティーバック)&青汁」です。 ビタミン、ポリフェノール・ミネラルといった栄養が豊富との事で早速試させて頂きました。 マテ 多少苦みがあるように感じますが、特に気になりません。 烏龍茶のような感じでしょうかね。 ...


Mate (Spanish pronunciation: [ˈmate]), also known as chimarrão (Portuguese: [ʃimaˈxɐ̃ũ]) or cimarrón, is a traditional South American infused drink. It is prepared from steeping dried leaves of yerba mate (llex paraguariensis, known in Portuguese as erva mate) in hot water. It is the national drink in Argentina, though Paraguay and Uruguay also happen to claim nationality over the beverage, and drinking it is a common social practice in parts of Brazil, Chile, eastern Bolivia, Lebanon and Syria. In Brazil, it is considered to be a tradition typical of the “Gauchos”, term commonly used to describe residents of the South American pampas, chacos, or Patagonian grasslands, found principally in parts of Argentina, Uruguay, Southern Chile, and Southern Region, Brazil. The drink contains caffeine[1].

Mate is served with a metal straw from a shared hollow calabash gourd. The straw is called a bombilla in Latin American Spanish, a bomba in Portuguese, and a masassa in Arabic. The straw is traditionally made of silver. Modern commercially available straws are typically made of nickel silver, called Alpaca, stainless steel, or hollow-stemmed cane. The gourd is known as a mate or a guampa, while in Brazil it has the specific name of chimarrão or cuia. Even if the water comes in a very modern thermos, the infusion is traditionally drunk from mates or cuias. However, "tea-bag" type infusions of mate (mate cocido) have been on the market in Argentina for many years under such trade names as "Cruz de Malta" and in Brazil under the name "Mate Leão".

As with other brewed herbs, yerba mate leaves are dried, chopped, and ground into a powdery mixture called yerba. The bombilla acts as both a straw and a sieve. The submerged end is flared, with small holes or slots that allow the brewed liquid in, but block the chunky matter that makes up much of the mixture. A modern bombilla design uses a straight tube with holes, or spring sleeve to act as a sieve.

A typical bomba / bombilla or straw
Contents [hide]

Name

The word is properly spelled "mate" in English,[2] Spanish, and Portuguese, though some English sources prefer "maté." The accent on the final letter is a hypercorrection intended to indicate that the word is distinct from the common English word "mate," meaning a partner. The multicultural Yerba Mate Association of the Americas states that it is always improper to accent the second syllable, since doing so confuses the word with the unrelated Spanish word meaning "I killed."[3]

In Brazil, traditionally prepared mate is known as chimarrão, although in areas near the border with Uruguay the word mate is also used.

The Spanish "cimarrón" means "rough," "brute," or "barbarian," but is most widely understood to mean "feral," and is used in almost all of Latin America for domesticated animals that have become wild. The word was then used by the people who colonized the region of the Río de la Plata to describe the natives' rough and sour drink, drunk with no other ingredient to soften the taste.

Preparation

The method of preparing the mate infusion varies considerably from region to region, and it is hotly debated which method yields the finest outcome. However, nearly all methods have some common elements. The beverage is traditionally prepared in a gourd recipient called also mate or guampa in Spanish and cuia in Portuguese. The gourd is nearly filled with yerba, and hot water (typically at 70–80 °C [160–180 °F], never boiling) is added.

The most common preparation involves a careful arrangement of the yerba within the gourd before adding hot water. In this method, the gourd is first filled one-half to three-quarters of the way with yerba. After that, any additional herbs may be added for either health or flavor benefits; a practice most common in Paraguay, where people acquire herbs from a local yuyera (herbalist) and use the mate as a base for their herbal infusions. When the gourd is adequately filled, the preparer typically grasps it with the full hand, covering and roughly sealing the opening with the palm. Then the mate is turned upside-down, and shaken vigorously, but briefly and with gradually decreasing force, in this inverted position causing the finest, most powdery particles of the yerba to settle toward the preparer's palm and the top of the mate.

Once the yerba has settled, the mate is carefully brought to a near-sideways angle, with the opening tilted just slightly upward of the base. The mate is then shaken very gently with a side-to-side motion. This further settles the yerba inside the gourd so that the finest particles move toward the opening and the yerba is layered along one side. The largest stems and other bits create a partition between the empty space on one side of the gourd and the lopsided pile of yerba on the other.

After arranging the yerba along one side of the gourd, the mate is carefully tilted back onto its base, minimizing further disturbances of the yerba as it is re-oriented to allow consumption. Some avalanche-like settling is normal, but is not desirable. The angled mound of yerba should remain, with its powdery peak still flat and mostly level with the top of the gourd. A layer of stems along its slope will slide downward and accumulate in the space opposite the yerba (though at least a portion should remain in place).

Another typical silver mate straw

All of this careful settling of the yerba ensures that each sip contains as little particulate matter as possible, creating a smooth-running mate. The finest particles will then be as distant as possible from the filtering end of the straw. With each draw, the smaller particles would inevitably move toward the straw, but the larger particles and stems filter much of this out. A sloped arrangement provides consistent concentration and flavor with each filling of the mate.

Now the mate is ready to receive the straw. Many people choose to pour warm water into the mate before adding the straw, while others insist that the straw is best inserted into dry yerba. Wetting the yerba by gently pouring cool water into the empty space within the gourd until the water nearly reaches the top, and then allowing it to be absorbed into the yerba before adding the straw, allows the preparer to carefully shape and "pack" the yerba's slope with the straw's filtering end, which makes the overall form of the yerba within the gourd more resilient and solid. Dry yerba, on the other hand, allows a cleaner and easier insertion of the straw, though care must be taken so as not to overly disturb the arrangement of the yerba. Such a decision is entirely a personal or cultural preference. The straw is inserted with one's thumb on the upper end of the straw, at an angle roughly perpendicular to the slope of the yerba, so that its filtering end travels into the deepest part of the yerba and comes to rest near or against the opposite wall of the gourd.

Brewing

Now the yerba may be brewed. If the straw was inserted into dry yerba, the mate must first be filled once with cool water as above, then be allowed to absorb it completely (which generally takes no more than two or three minutes). Treating the yerba with cool water before the addition of hot water is essential, as it protects the herb from being scalded and from the chemical breakdown of some of its desirable nutrients. Hot water may then be added by carefully pouring it, as with the cool water before, into the cavity opposite the yerba, until it reaches almost to the top of the gourd when the yerba is fully saturated. Care should be taken to maintain the dryness of the swollen top of the yerba beside the edge of the gourd's opening.

Once the hot water has been added, the mate is ready for drinking, and it may be refilled many times before becoming washed out (lavado) and losing its flavor. When this occurs, the mound of yerba can be pushed from one side of the gourd to the other, allowing water to be added along its opposite side; this revives the mate for additional re-fillings.

Although it can be served in this traditional way, it is now more of a common drink. The tea bag variety 'mate leão' is brewed as you would brew tea in your own house: sweeten it and refrigerate it for later consumption.

Etiquette

Mate drinking in typical Uruguayan way in public. Plaza Cagancha, Montevideo, Uruguay.

Mate is traditionally drunk in a particular social setting, such as family gatherings or with friends. In Brazil and Argentina, the same gourd (cuia) and straw (bomba/bombilla) are used by everyone drinking. One person (known in Portuguese as the preparador or in Spanish as the cebador) assumes the task of server. Typically, the cebador fills the gourd and drinks the mate completely to ensure that it is free of particulate matter and of good quality. In some places passing the first brew of mate to another drinker is considered bad manners, as it may be too cold or too strong; for this reason the first brew is often called mate del zonzo (mate of the fool). The cebador subsequently refills the gourd and passes it to the next drinker who likewise drinks it all, without thanking the server. When there is no more tea, the straw makes a loud sucking noise, that is not considered rude. The ritual proceeds around the circle in this fashion until the mate becomes lavado ("washed out" or "flat"), typically after the gourd has been filled about ten times or more depending on the yerba used (well-aged yerba mate is typically more potent, and therefore provides a greater number of refills) and the ability of the cebador. When one has had his fill of mate, he or she politely thanks the cebador passing the mate back at the same time. It is considered rude to complain about the temperature of the water or to take too long to finish drinking.

Some drinkers like to add sugar or honey, creating mate dulce (sweet mate), instead of sugarless mate amargo (bitter mate). It is considered bad for the gourd (especially for the natural (squash or wood) ones) to be used for mate dulce so it is normal for households with drinkers of both kinds to have two separate gourds.

Traditionally, natural gourds are used, though wood vessels, bamboo tubes and gourd-shaped mates, made of ceramic or metal (stainless steel or even silver) are also common. In Brazil, the gourd is traditionally made out of the porongo or cabaça fruit shell. Gourds are commonly decorated with silver, sporting decorative or heraldic designs with floral motifs.

Rituals

Drinking the yerba mate is considered to be more than just good for the body; it's also good for the soul. Drinking it can be a form of meditation or reflection - allowing the goodness to infuse into the body while stimulating and resting the mind. Those who share the mate join in a kind of bond of total acceptance and friendship. Generally the server will start a new infusion and then take the first drink. This is considered an act of kindness by the other people in the circle, because usually the first serving is considered the worst.[4]

Both the wood vessels and the gourds must undergo curing to get a better taste before being used for the first time and to ensure the long life of the gourd. Typically, to cure a gourd, the wet inside is first scraped with the tip of a teaspoon to remove loose gourd particles. Mate herb and hot water is added next, and the mixture poured into the gourd. The mixture is left to sit overnight and the water is topped off periodically through the next 24 hours as the gourd absorbs the water. Finally the gourd is scraped out, emptied, and put in sunlight until completely dry. Drying the gourd near a Parilla (barbecue grill) is common in Argentina and adds a smokey flavor to the gourd.

It is common for a black mold to grow inside a poorly scraped gourd when it is stored wet. Some people will clean this out, others consider it an enhancement to the mate flavor. Storing the gourd empty and in a well ventilated place, like an open shelf, is the better way.

Health effects

Mate is very much like coffee and tea, is considered safe by the United States Food and Drug Administration, and is on their GRAS (Generally Recognized as Safe) list.[5]

In-vivo and in-vitro studies are showing that yerba mate exhibits significant cancer-fighting activity. In 1995, research at the University of Illinois found yerba mate to inhibit the proliferation of oral cancer cells.

On the other hand, researchers in Mississippi found that both cold and hot water extractions of popular commercial yerba mate products contained high levels (8.03 to 53.3 ng/g dry leaves) of carcinogenic polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) (i.e. Benzo[a]pyrene)[6]. However, these potential carcinogenic compounds originate from commercial drying process of the maté leaves, which involves smoke from the burning of wood, much like polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons found in wood smoked meat.[7]

Other studies have highlighted limited evidence showing an association between esophageal cancer and hot mate drinking. Some research has suggested that this effect is almost entirely a consequence of hot mate's temperature; similar links to cancer have been found for tea and other beverages generally consumed at high temperatures. While drinking mate at very hot temperatures is considered as "probably carcinogenic to humans" on the IARC Group 2A carcinogens list, mate itself is not classifiable as to its carcinogenicity to humans.[8]

Legendary origins

The Guaraní (Guarani, in Brazilian Portuguese) people started drinking mate in the region that now includes Paraguay, southern Brazil, south-easthern Bolivia, north-east Argentina, and Uruguay. The Guaraní have a legend that says that the Goddesses of the Moon and the Cloud came to the Earth one day to visit it but they instead found a Yaguareté (a jaguar) that was going to attack them. An old man saved them, and, in compensation, the Goddesses gave the old man a new kind of plant, from which he could prepare a "drink of friendship".

Variants

Statue of a man preparing mate, in Posadas, Misiones, Argentina

There is another drink that can be prepared with specially cut dry leaves, very cold water and, optionally, lemon or another fruit juice, called tereré. It is very common in Paraguay, northeastern Argentina and in the state of Mato Grosso do Sul, Brazil. After pouring the water, it is considered proper to "wait while the saint has a sip" before the first person takes a drink.

In Uruguay and Brazil the traditional gourd is usually big with a corresponding large hole. In Argentina (especially in the capital, Buenos Aires) the gourd is small and has a small hole, and people sometimes add sugar for flavor.

In Uruguay it is common to see people walking around the streets toting a mate and a thermos with hot water. In some parts of Argentina, gas stations sponsored by yerba mate producers provide free hot water to travelers, specifically for the purpose of drinking during the journey. There are disposable mate sets with a plastic mate and straw, and sets with a thermos flask and stacking containers for the yerba and sugar inside a fitted case. There is a national law In Uruguay that prohibits drinking mate while driving, because it caused many accidents of people getting scalded with hot water while driving.

In Argentina, mate cocido (cooked mate) is made with a teabag or leaves and drunk from a cup or mug, with or without sugar and milk. Since 2001, a tea and coffee company from Mar del Plata exports its production of mate teabags to Poland.[9] In Brazil, mate is considered to be a tradition typical of the “Gaúchos”, name given to those born in Rio Grande do Sul.

Most urban Chileans do not drink mate, but travel narratives such as Maria Graham's Journal of a Residence in Chile, show that there is a long history of mate drinking in central Chile. Many rural Chileans drink mate, in particular in the southern regions, particularly Chiloé and Magallanes, perhaps due to the influence of neighboring areas of Argentina.

In some provinces of the Middle Eastern countries of Syria and Lebanon it is also common to drink mate. The custom of drinking mate came from Arabs who moved to South America during the early twentieth century, adopted the habit, and kept it after returning home. Syria is the biggest importer of yerba mate in the world, importing 15,000 tons a year. It is mostly the Druze community in Syria and Lebanon who maintain the culture and practice of mate.[10][11]

According to a major retailer of mate in San Luis Obispo, California, by 2004 mate had grown to about 5% of the overall natural tea market in North America.[12][13] Loose Mate is commercially available in much of North America. Bottled mate is increasingly available in the United States. Canadian bottlers have introduced a cane sugar-sweetened carbonated variety, remarkably similar to soda-pop, less the fructose, chemically extracted caffeine and preservatives. One brand, Sol Mate, produces 10-ounce glass bottles available at Canadian and U.S. retailers, making use of this clever pun for the sake of marketing.[citation needed].



2010年3月23日 星期二

茶の世界史 Liquid Jade: The Story of Tea from East to West Traveling from East to West over thousands of years, tea has played a variety of roles on the w

Works

Nonfiction

Liquid Jade: The Story of Tea from East to West


A lively exploration of the world’s most consumed beverage in all its historical and cultural aspects.
Find Authors

Liquid Jade: The Story of Tea from East to West


Traveling from East to West over thousands of years, tea has played a variety of roles on the world scene--as an ancient health remedy; an element of cultural and religious practices; a valuable and contentious commodity in history, politics, and international trade; a wide-ranging theme in the fine and decorative arts.

And yet, how much do we really know about this marvelous plant and its impact on humanity? Behind this most serene of beverages, idolized by poets and revered in spiritual practices, lie stories of treachery, violence, smuggling, drug trade, international espionage, slavery, and revolution.

Detail from an early manuscript on the medical benefits of drinking tea, France, 1687

Liquid Jade explores tea in all its historical and cultural aspects. Entertaining yet informative and extensively researched, Liquid Jade tells the story of western greed and eastern bliss. China was the first to recognize tea’s invaluable health properties. Taoists celebrated tea as the elixir of immortality. Buddhist Japan developed a whole body of practices around tea as a spiritual path.

Tea Bowl and Verse on the Theme of Tea, Japan, nineteenth century (Private Collection, Los Angeles)
The translation of the verse is: The pine breeze fills the tea bowl with moon and stars. One sip awakens you from the long dream sleep.

Then came the traumatic encounter of the refined Eastern cultures with the first Western merchants, the trade wars, the emergence of the English East India Company and its ubiquitous role in the development of colonialism.

Scottish spies crisscrossed China to steal the secrets of tea production. An army of smugglers made fortunes with tea deliveries in the dead of night. In the name of “free trade” the English perpetrated one of the most immoral acts in history by importing opium into China in exchange for tea, causing unimaginable human grief and bringing the country to its knees.

Opium Smokers, China, 1901

The exploding tea industry in the eighteenth century had an involuntary but powerful impact in reinforcing the practice of slavery in the sugar plantations. And one of the reasons why tea became popular in the first place is that it helped sober up the English, who were virtually drowning in alcohol at the time.

During the nineteenth century, the massive consumption of tea in England also led to the development of the large tea plantation system in colonial India – a story of success for British Empire tea and of untold misery for generations of tea workers.


Coolie children plucking tea, Ceylon, 1903

Liquid Jade also depicts tea’s beauty and delight, not only with myths about the beginnings of tea or the lovers’ legend in the familiar blue-and-white porcelain willow pattern, but also with a rich and varied selection of works of art and historical photographs, which form a rare and comprehensive visual tea record in and of themselves.

The book includes engaging and lesser-known topics such as the exclusion of women from seventeenth-century tea houses or the importance of water for tea, and answers questions such as: “What does a tea taster do?” “How much caffeine is there in tea?” “What is fair trade tea?” and “What is the difference between black, red, yellow, green, or white tea?”


The Tea Gardens, England, 1788 (Courtesy of the Bramah Museum of Tea and Coffee)

Connecting past and present, Liquid Jade explores the world of tea today and discusses how organic and fair trade practices can begin to address the damage of hundreds of years of labor as well as soil exploitation. According to the author: “If the reading of Liquid Jade will do nothing else but turn readers into more socially conscious consumers, I consider that history will have served a purpose.”

Chinese tea porter, England, nineteenth century

© 2007-2008 Text and images Beatrice Hohenegger, All Rights Reserved


http://d.hatena.ne.jp/mahounofuefuki/20100322/1269260064

[] ビアトリス・ホーネガー『茶の世界史 中国の霊薬から世界の飲み物へ』(平田紀之訳、白水社、2010年)

 「茶」の通史。古代中国における飲茶習慣の発祥と展開、道教と茶の関係、日本での茶道の発達、ヨーロッパでの茶の需要拡大とアジア植民地化、帝国主義との関係、茶生産搾取構造の変容、茶の色や味や飲み方を巡るさまざまな逸話などなど、論点は多岐にわたるが、経済史・社会史・文化史が有機的に結びついた叙述となっている。ユーモアアイロニーを交えた語り口が卓抜である。

 おそらく著者が最も問題意識を抱いているのは、茶の生産者消費者の不均衡という点である。17世紀初頭にオランダが日本から茶を輸入したのを嚆矢として、ヨーロッパで飲茶習慣が始まるが、当初は薬用品だったのが嗜好品として需要が拡大するに従い、列強間のシェア争いや貿易収支の不均衡が甚だしくなり、周知の通りイギリスは中国との茶貿易の収支を有利にするためにアヘン貿易を始め、それが中国に対する帝国主義的侵出につながった。長らく中国が独占していた茶生産は、近代以降インド植民地での大量生産へ移り(本書ではイギリス人が中国内地で茶の栽培法を「スパイ」し、インドへ移植する経緯も詳述している)、安価移民労働者の搾取が構造化して今日も基本的には変わっていない。「何世代にもわたって、茶労働者は農園で生まれ、農園で死んでいく。ここでは彼らは侵入者として冷遇され、非熟練労働者として劣った人間とみなされているので、社会階層の底辺に帰属させられている」(p.247)。劣悪な労働環境に加えて、地域社会からの疎外(スリランカでは最近まで茶労働者の多いインド・タミル族には国籍すらなかったという)が茶生産に従事する労働者を苦境に置いている。著者はそうした不均衡の是正策としてフェアトレードを推進する立場を明示している。

 個人的な注目点としては茶とコミュニケーションの関係である。すでに古代中国で茶は社交と結びついて発達し、文人たちは茶会を開いて文化・芸術を議論し、飲茶競技なるものも存在した。17世紀イギリスでは「コーヒーハウス」で茶が供され、「茶を飲みながら、客は新聞広告パンフレットを読み、ゴシップ、印刷される前の最新ニュース、およそ考えうる限りの話題をめぐる活発な会話に接した」(p.74)。入場料が1ペニーと安価だったことから庶民の社交場として繁盛し、情報交換やビジネスの場としても機能したという。18世紀に流行するプレジャー・ガーデン(社交庭園)も茶が不可欠で、そうした茶会がミドルクラスの一種のステータスとなった。酒もそうだが、茶も常に「他者との時間の共有」をお膳立てする道具なのだろう。茶会の社会的機能の歴史的変容というテーマはもっと開拓の余地があると思われる。

2010年3月16日 星期二

喝茶仪式

喝茶不需要仪式


>杂志社每个月开完选题会,同事们免不了就四散准备出差。出 差之前,又免不了互相询问,你去哪?云南。哦,那带点普洱回来。你去哪?福建。哦,那带点铁观音回来。去四川,就带点竹叶青,去安徽,那就这次带猴魁,六 安瓜片留待下次再带……还有去江西景德镇的,想来想去,江西虽然也有茶,但是去了景德镇,就不如索性带一套茶具回来吧——同事也说了,带瓷器是应该的,总 不能带套锅碗瓢盆的餐具回来吧。这一下又一发不可收拾,去浙江的就得带青瓷茶具,甚至去河南的,都恨不得带一套伪钧窑的茶具回来。

这事儿做 得多了,难免就有人问我,你怎么什么茶都喝?我就好奇反问道,难道这喝茶也有像喝酒一样的规矩,不能混着喝?问完回家一看,架子上那各色各样品种不一的茶 叶,一字排开,却是在琳琅满目之外,又令我顿时哑然失笑。是啊,这一方面必须要自豪一下中国地大物博,人民嗜茶如命,只要气候条件合适的地方,就必然能培 养出当地的一种名茶来。另一方面却要自责一下,这些年背井离乡,一个人在外头飘荡得久了,不仅吃饭的口味不再那么地域化,连喝茶的口味,也变得不执著了。

是 的,作为一个浙江人,在很长很长的一段时间里,我以为茶就是绿茶。甚至在我小时候,也不知道浙江绿茶的代表作是龙井。我们浙南也种茶树,采下来之后的炒 制,不如龙井那么精心,所以形状色泽没有那么漂亮。可是冲出来,依然清香宜人。现在在外面喝多了好茶,偶尔回老家,喝一杯老妈在街边几十块钱一斤买的茶 叶,也会大叫一声“好茶。”至于我从外头拐来的那些号称价格成百上千的茶叶,孝敬了老妈之后,却常常只换来她淡淡的一句,“还行吧。”

只是 今年过年,发现老家的大街小巷也早已经开满了茶馆,而身为茶馆,自然少不了的一套套的茶具,和必备的铁观音普洱。甚至当我去到龙泉,去拜访那些一辈子制造 青瓷的工艺美术大师的时候,也无一例外地在他们工作间的醒目位置,看到一套套精美的茶具——有了这些茶具,就喝不了当地传统的绿茶了。这件事儿想起来,其 实是一件挺令人啼笑皆非的事。所以我看到一位铸剑大师,他喝的是金观音,当地人介绍说,这是龙泉自己产的铁观音。另外一位青瓷工艺大师,他爱喝普洱,据说 从云南买了一吨,租了间仓库储藏起来。

还有一位大师,喝的是红茶。或 许,和我这代人相比,父母那一代还是最忠实地执着于他们的喝茶习惯和口味的。对于风靡全国的铁观音,尤其是前两年的普洱和这两年的武夷山岩茶,他们有所耳 闻,却绝不动心。即便是我父母这样不太关心流行事物的人,也终于明白,现在流行的是喝铁观音普洱,也逐渐接受了铁观音悠长的香味。可是当他们看到一人据几 而坐,面前放一张茶盘,茶盘上放满了盖碗、茶壶、公道杯、各色杯子还有茶宠。冲茶之前先装模作样地洗手,等水烧开再冲杯,第一道茶汤喝不得……看到这里的 时候,他们已经忍无可忍:“实在太浪费了,也太麻烦了。”而我,看到他们把铁观音扔到玻璃杯里,用开水一冲就喝的时候,也会痛心疾首。有时候天气太冷,他 们还会选择用保温杯泡茶,喝一口,照样怡然自得。

可是后来,我慢慢地明白了,喝茶本来喝的就是一种心情。在城市里,我们忙碌而浮躁,只有在 面对那一方茶海,一丝不苟地做着茶道的手势的时候,内心有一种被放空的安宁。而对于我们的父母,同样的动作对于他们只是累赘,同样的茶具对他们只是负担。 茶,就只是茶而已,怎么喝,又何必太过执着?

2010年3月12日 星期五

千两茶

千两茶制作技艺

千两茶属 黑茶类,其工艺发源、传承于湖南省益阳市安化县境内,有140年历史。该地集山区、库区于一体,特殊的地理环境,形成了优质的土壤和优良的气候,适宜于茶 树生长。安化素有“中国茶乡”之称,唐朝中期,所产“渠江薄片”茶成为朝廷贡品。宋朝熙宁年间置县时,“惟茶甲于诸州市”。明朝万历年间,安化黑茶定为销 往西北的官茶,占据欧美市场,曾有“无安化字号不买”之说。道光元年(1821),当地茶商为了便于运输,把收来的黑茶踩捆成小圆柱形,每支定为100两 (16两老秤),故称“百两茶”。 同治2年,江南镇边江村的几家茶农在百两茶的基础上,独创出千两花卷茶,重量为老秤1000两。当时,千两茶工艺传内 不传外,三、四十年后才收徒授术。新中国成立后,其工艺得到了一定范围的传承。目前,正在积极抢救这项工艺。
安化千两茶制作属手工操作, 实行土法生产。使用的工具有锯子、剖刀、刮刀、茶杈、湿布、灶炉、筛子、风车、蔑篓、抽屉、木棒、压杠、扎蔑等。其制作分两个阶段进行,首先制作黑毛茶, 经过杀青、揉捻、渥堆、复揉、烘焙等5道工序,然后进行千两茶精深加工,黑毛茶经过筛分、拼配,再采用软化、装篓、踩压、扎箍、锁口、冷却、干燥等工序, 日晒夜露55天,遂成成品。
安化千两茶的主要特征是手工技艺精深,选茶准、烘茶干、装茶满、踩茶紧……等等这些流程,一环紧扣一环,一丝 不苟,精益求精,以质优取胜。其重要价值在于科技含量很高,从而获得相应的社会效益和经济效益。目前,安化千两茶是中国最正宗的黑茶品种,享有“世界茶 王”的盛誉,堪称我国茶文化的“活化石”。
安化是千两茶原产地。该县位于湘中偏北,雪峰山脉北部,资水中 游,是一个山区,又是一个库区。东与桃江、宁乡接壤,南与涟源、新化毗邻,西与溆浦、沅陵交界,北与桃源、常德相连。其地理座标,界于东经100°43′ 07″至111°58′51″,北纬27°58′54″至28°38′37″之间。东西长123.764公里,南北宽73.461公里,总面积 4950.25平方公里,是湖南省第三大县。总人口96万。安化还是中华祖源文化——梅山文化的中心发源地和重要发祥地,历史悠久,源远流长,文化独特, 底蕴深厚,为世人所瞩目。千两茶是梅山文化中生产方式、生活习惯的一种很具代表意义的载体,经过了产生、发展、鼎盛、衰落、复兴五个曲折而辉煌的历史时 期。
  安化有“先有茶,后有县”之说。唐朝中期,此地所产“渠江薄片”茶成为朝廷贡品。唐朝末年,统领湖南的马殷称王建楚后,大力鼓励农民种 茶,既增加国民经济收入,又用黑茶向西北游牧民族交换战马,安化成了当时湖南黑茶的主产地,黑茶便是后来千两茶精制加工的原料。宋朝熙宁五年(1072) 设置安化县,朝廷对安化的认识就是“惟茶甲于诸市”。当时,官方就已建立茶马交易的茶马司机构。熙宁七年(1074)设有收购茶叶的茶场司和向西北少数民 族买马的买马司。元丰四年(1081),合两司为一,称为茶马司。朝廷司茶机构的设置,极大地促进了安化黑茶业的发展。
千两茶的功能性成 分是茶复合多糖类化合物、儿茶素和氧化产物黄烷醇类氧化基合物,能促进血液循环、控制动脉硬化、帮助消化、防治糖尿病、平衡血脂血栓。这些特殊功能,是其 它茶类不可替代的安化的黑茶,分散茶、紧压茶两大类。散茶类中有引茶、天尖、贡尖、生尖等多种;紧压茶类中有花卷、花砖、茯砖、黑砖茶等。见于文献记载的 《明会典•茶课》说:“弘治三年(1490),令今后进贡番僧该尝食茶…… 不许于湖广等处收买私茶,违者尽数入官”。番僧,指西藏喇嘛。他们常组成上百人的朝拜团至京师礼服朝贡。回藏时,绕道湖广收买私茶。这种私茶就是黑茶,而 湖广黑茶又主产于安化一带。安化黑茶滋味浓厚醇和,而且产量多,价格又便宜,在吸引西藏僧人绕道来收购的同时,还吸引了陕西、山西等地的茶商争来安化收 购,以至引起了朝廷的注意,形成弛禁之争。明万历二十三年(1595),御史李楠以湖南茶叶行销西北妨碍茶法马政为由,请朝廷禁运。另一御史徐侨则提出相 反的意见说:“汉川(汉中和四川)茶少而值高,湖南茶多而值下。湖茶之行销,无妨汉中。汉茶味甘而薄,湖茶味苦,于酥酪为宜”。认为安化黑茶对西北游牧民 族有利,不宜禁止。万历皇帝采纳了这个建议,批准颁布《黑茶章程》,安化黑茶正式定为销往西北的官茶。

踩茶

压茶

偿茶

历史悠久
  清代道光元年(1821)制作的百两茶,就是千 两茶的前身,以此为起点计算,至今已有186年的历史。正宗千两茶产生时间晚于百两茶40多年,足足走过了140年。从时代划分看,经历了中国封建帝制社 会(清道光、咸丰、同治、光绪、宣统)、半封建半殖民地社会、中华民国,进入了社会主义社会,即中华人民共和国。其间,历经坎坷,有兴有衰,兴衰与共,世 间沧桑见证了它的变迁过程。这种源远流长的历史,意寓着博大深厚的茶文化。
  民俗独特
  千两茶源 于梅山腹地,这里的民俗淳朴而独特。千两茶一旦面世,就紧紧地与当地农民的生产、生活结合在一起。制茶、饮茶蔚然成风,一直延续至今。当时,土著居民“不 求大碗吃肉,唯求小碗喝茶”,尤其爱喝本地特产千两茶,达到淡泊清新、甜中略苦的茶生活境界。喝前,用铁锯将千两茶切片,然后用茶刀将切片再切细,放于茶 具中,最后加热开水沏泡。可见,千两茶茶俗是安化最具特征的民俗。
工艺精深
  制作千两茶,使用简陋的工具,进行手工操作,算得上土法上马。其外观也并不华美,几近土气土色。然而,它的制作工艺很讲究。选茶准、烘茶干、装茶满、踩茶紧……等等这些流程,一环紧扣一环,以质优取胜。只要细细研究,就能发现千两茶工艺的博大精深。
  传承顺畅
  毋庸讳言,千两茶制作工艺中确实藏有奥秘。产生一段时期来,从不向外泄露半点机宜。而在内部,总是一代接着一代地传承下去。数十年后,正宗传人才向外传授技术。新中国成立后,千两茶工艺从广度上打破了禁锢,开放式地传播,使之发扬光大。
  
效益可佳
古往今来,千两茶以其自身的优势和无法替代的作用,赢得了可佳的社会效益和经济效益。按现行市场价,去年产品每支销价为3000元左右,利润率高。特别 是,国际社会称誉安化千两茶为“世界茶王”(出自台湾茶学专家曾至贤《方圆之缘——深探紧压茶世界》一书)。国内外一批专家学者一致认定千两茶:“世界只 有中国有,中国只有湖南有,湖南只有益阳有,益阳只有安化有”。安化千两茶在各级行政区域里的至高无上的地位,得以充分凸显出来。

2010年3月11日 星期四

茶壽 (巢)

劉玉英農村稻草茶壽
656 x 300 - 78k - jpg
eliwen.com
本地就是以茶壽
597 x 899 - 140k - php
plog.tcc.edu.tw
的特色,應該首推「
399 x 600 - 94k - jpg
srsweet99.pixnet.net
品名:蘭藤花仿古中
200 x 150 - 25k - jpg
b-choice.com.tw
獅潭鄉--茶壽
400 x 266 - 71k - jpg
taiwan319.blog.shinobi.jp

2010年3月6日 星期六

拉丁文無茶一字

明末怪杰---陈洪绶的生涯及艺术

书籍作者:陈传席著
图书出版社:浙江人民美术

這是昨天翻的書

***
昨天也讀 Belloc, Hilaire
令人噴飯的文很多
譬如說以拉丁文寫
酒使人吐真言
水使人飽足
而茶呢
天 拉丁文無一字

此君甚妙 據說出書150本以上
on something/on anything/on nothing/on
四五本
如果
verse and sonet 不好 收回 10年後再出版 sonet and verse

2010年3月2日 星期二

荒茶奮起

(4)荒茶與加工茶
摘取茶葉首先成為荒茶
在茶園摘取茶葉的生葉很容易受傷,為了加工而不適合長距離及時間的運送。為了抑制發酵,進行快速的「蒸煮或炒」」「揉捻」「乾燥」等加工是必要的,經過這些加工,稱為「荒茶」是茶葉的一次商品。
茶園與荒茶加工場不能距離太遠。茶園是生產茶葉的農家,或農協等工廠及指定隣近的業者。
荒茶為了加工摘取下的生茶葉,大致以「荒茶」為名,茶葉芽與莖的部分一起混合。最近,注意以自然取向的消費者,以「荒茶」之名來販賣的商品,在多數的場合,有篩選的作業,成為加工的商品。
因為容易受傷,長距離的運送有困難的生茶,作為「荒茶」而成為加工茶的原料茶,成為可運送的流通商品。




09年荒全国生産量は10%減 減産も市場価格は低迷
食の情報源 (登録)
農林水産省は2月25日、平成21年(09年)産生産量を公表した。全国の荒生産量は8万6000tで08年産に比べ10%減少した。 一番茶の荒生産量は3万8300tで08年より3%減、二番茶は2万5800tで8%減、三番茶は5780tで21%減、四番茶が1460tで16%減、冬春秋番茶が1万4600t ...



荒茶取扱量が過去最高に研修会で奮起誓う/JA全農ふくれん【九州・沖縄】
掲載日:08-01-25
  【ふくおか八女】八女茶を取り扱うJA全農ふくれん茶取引センターは17日、八女市で2007年度茶業振興研修会を開いた。指定茶商、JAふくおか八女、 JA茶業部会などの関係者89人が参加。07年度の荒茶取扱量1536トン(同日現在)が1974年開所以降、過去最高を記録したことが報告され、一層の 奮起を誓い合った。

 橋山達二場長による生産・販売概況報告の後、エフコープ生協の陶山惠子理事長が「食の安全と安心」について講演した。

 主催者を代表し、ふくれんの乗富幸雄県副本部長は「緑茶シーズンに限らず、オフシーズンも積極的にPRイベントを考え、リーフ茶の消費拡大へつなげていこう」と呼び掛けた。

 松延利博JA組合長は「産地では安全なものを作っているので、消費者には安心して買っていただいていると思う」と語った。


一層

奮起 荒茶

振作,奮發興起。後漢書˙卷八十二˙方術傳下˙薊子訓傳:「驢應聲奮起,行步如初,即復進道。」




取扱量が過去最高に研修会で奮起誓う/JA全農ふくれん【九州・沖縄】
日本農業新聞
【ふくおか八女】八女を取り扱うJA全農ふく れん取引センターは17日、八女市で2007 年度業振興研修会を開いた。指定商、J Aふくおか八女、JA業部会 ...

あらちゃ 0 【荒茶】

生葉を蒸してもみ乾したままの茶。


ふんき-いちばん 1-2 【奮起一番】

さあ、やるぞ、と意気込むこと。