2016年2月19日 星期五

一生都在做普洱茶標準的鄒炳良 (許怡先 )


http://www.storm.mg/lifestyle/82475

許怡先談生普:一生都在做普洱茶標準的鄒炳良

 2016年02月19日 11:19
一生致力於普洱茶標準化大師-鄒炳良是經典7542的制訂者及勐海茶廠拼配工藝的傳承者(圖/作者提供)
一生致力於普洱茶標準化大師-鄒炳良是經典7542的制訂者及勐海茶廠拼配工藝的傳承者(圖/作者提供)
喜歡喝普洱茶的茶友,不論喝老茶或新茶,對勐海茶廠出品的「7542」生茶和「7572」熟茶必不陌生,而且對「7542」的由來,是1975年4號配方做配料及茶廠代號2號勐海茶廠所生產的故事耳熟能詳。
「7542」這個代號,正是普洱茶進入配方拼標準化的濫觴,制訂「7542」規範及配方的人,就是被稱為「普洱茶終身成就大師」的鄒炳良老先生。
初見鄒炳良老先生是2010年底的事。在昆明的藹若春餐廳,領略了他「為天下人做好茶」在於訂定普洱茶拼配工藝標準化的精義。
在安寧市海灣村鄒老先生的「窖評室」裡,他毫不藏私的講解,普洱茶拼配工藝「揚優隱次」的觀點,更實際操作選種審評的技巧。後來我才得知,鄒老先生只要不為氣喘所苦,幾乎每天都會到安寧海灣茶廠的審評間,把審評當成日復一日、年復一年唯一的工作,數十年如一日未曾中斷過。
鄒炳良老先生的不藏私,在普洱茶業界遠近皆知。中茶公司雲南省公司的製茶專家鄭際雄就告訴我,他多年前在學習熟茶發酵工藝時,親自去看了「鄒老廠長」受益良多。
「勐海茶廠早年的標準,是我父親和盧國齡女士一起長期努力出來的。」鄒炳良的女兒鄒小蘭說,勐海茶廠早年的原料級別和評定收料的價格標準,就是盧國齡女士制定的。這兩位老人家,現在是傳承普洱茶製作工藝的國寶級專家,共同在1999年創辦了「海灣茶廠」。而在2001年,一位來自台灣的茶友到安寧海灣茶廠參訪,看到兩位老人家,說出「這兩位是老同志共同傳承普洱茶呀!」於是,海灣茶廠用「老同志」做為商標,以鄒炳良「為天下人做好茶」的精神做茶,在普洱茶界樹立了標準,打響了名號。
傳承7542的拼配精神,鄒老廠長會再次為它定義新標準,定會在普洱茶產業帶動新的局面(圖片來源中國普洱茶網).jpg
傳承7542的拼配精神,鄒老廠長會再次為它定義新標準,定會在普洱茶產業帶動新的局面(圖片來源中國普洱茶網)
創辦了海灣茶廠,鄒炳良的標準化並沒有停止,拼配是王道的觀念,使得這位人人稱呼「老廠」的拼配大師,把「7542」的精神,以「7548」延續了下來,「8就算是海灣茶廠自己訂下的代號吧!」老廠長說,國企時代的茶廠編號了4個號碼,海灣排位放後面一點,而用8這個數字,也討個「發」的諧音吉字。
海灣茶廠拼配工藝的標準,在鄒老廠長的敦促下並沒有停滯。進入2008年之後,鄒炳良把7548的配方再做了精良改進,並以「1999年」創廠的後2碼打代號,發展出了「9948」以及品質更優的「9928」系列,成為他勐海茶廠時代「7542」生茶的繼承茶品。
推動標準化,不只是原料的級別與製茶工藝。在2010年的年底,雲南省農業廳茶葉辦公室為普洱茶的「原產地證明」訂定了一套申辦「國家地理標誌保護產品」的「茶園證」規範,並在2011年的4月起實施,鄒老廠長對推動原產地證明的普洱茶「茶園證」申辦,也領先同業為海灣的茶園基地,拿到雲南省第一張「茶園證」。
在2011年11月的廣州國際茶業博覽會上,雲南省茶葉辦公室主任楊善禧和鄒炳良老先生,以「普洱茶茶園證─啟動產業新標準」為主題,共同主持了一次座談。鄒炳良更在會上以「一生都在做普洱茶的標準」為題,做了專題發表。
茶園證的實施,讓普洱茶產茶的標準化,向前推進了一大步。在這個新的基礎上,普洱茶的溯源管理與履歷認證,得以取得依據。
「普洱茶有了電子身分證」也是由鄒炳良與台灣的永奕科技做了開創性的試點,用在「帕沙」和「蘇湖」兩個寨子所拼配的生普「海灣一號」上。
這也是普洱茶產茶邁向智能化管理和溯源管理履歷認證時代的新起點。
短程的幾年下來,鄒炳良以標準化的推手,在普洱茶傳統產業上,試著邁向互聯網加上大數據庫的整合,在生產履歷、倉履歷和收藏履歷的新標準化努力。2015年底,在安寧海灣茶廠所建立的加工廠和普洱茶標準倉庫已正式啟用,讓普洱茶產茶進入互聯網加大數據庫管理的「普洱茶標準倉」時代來臨。
今(2016)年的上半年,海灣茶廠也試著以履歷認證和審評標準化為前提,將普洱茶推向「茶金融交易平台」,為互聯網加大數據庫進入「交易履歷」的新標準建立標竿,凸顯「一生都在做普洱茶標準」的鄒炳良先生,會是普洱茶產茶走向現代化新標準的領先保持者。我深信7542的傳承,鄒老廠長會再次出發,為它定義新的標準,一場普洱茶傳產的業態革命已經啟動。

咖啡膠囊 coffee capsules的環保問題

Is there a serious problem with coffee capsules?

  • 19 February 2016
  •  
  • From the sectionMagazine
Coffee capsules in front of a coffee cupImage copyrightiStock
The German city of Hamburg has banned coffee pods from state-run buildings as part of an environmental drive to reduce waste. Should others follow suit, asks Chris Stokel-Walker.
First there was the coffee bean, then the instant coffee jar, and then expensive coffee shop drinks on the go.
In the past decade or more coffee drinkers worldwide have adopted a new method of getting their daily jolt of caffeine - the coffee capsule machine, in which small plastic or aluminium pods capped with foil or filter paper containing coffee grounds are put into a machine that fills a cup quickly with palatable coffee.
But increasingly the single-serving coffee pods, which Nespresso first sold in 1986 in four flavours, are attracting critics who say they are an environmental menace.
Multi-coloured capsulesImage copyrightiStock
As part of a guide to green procurement, the German city of Hamburg last month introduced a ban on buying "certain polluting products or product components" with council money. The ban includes specific terms for "equipment for hot drinks in which portion packaging is used" - specifically singling out the "Kaffeekapselmaschine", or coffee capsule machine, which accounts for one in eight coffees sold in Germany.
"These portion packs cause unnecessary resource consumption and waste generation, and often contain polluting aluminium," the report says.
Commuter drinking coffee on railway platform in HamburgImage copyrightGetty Images
Image captionDrinking coffee in Hamburg - not from a capsule
"The capsules can't be recycled easily because they are often made of a mixture of plastic and aluminium," adds Jan Dube, spokesman of the Hamburg Department of the Environment and Energy.
The complexity of the packaging - often a mix of different materials - combined with the dregs of organic waste from unused ground coffee sitting in the bottom of the pod makes them difficult to process in standard municipal recycling plants.
There are other issues. "It's 6g of coffee in 3g of packaging," says Dube. "We in Hamburg thought that these shouldn't be bought with taxpayers' money."
Jens Kerstan, Hamburg's senator for the environment, said that the move, which is part of a bigger environmental drive, sends out an important signal. "With a purchasing power of several hundred millions of euros per annum, the city can help ensure that environmentally harmful products are purchased less frequently."
It's not just German politicians who feel this way. One in 10 Britons polled by Harris Interactive for The Grocer, a supermarket trade magazine, said that they believed "coffee pods are very bad for the environment." At the same time, 22% of those asked said they owned a machine.
Capsule coffee makerImage copyrightGetty Images
It's 40 years since Eric Favre, the inventor of Nespresso, first developed the coffee pod, and 30 years since the first machine was released. By one count, 254 separate patents reference Favre's original design for "a capsule containing a substance for making up a drink using an apparatus". As recently as last year Lavazza, a coffee manufacturer, submitted its own patent for capsule technology.
Coffee pods make up one third of the €18bn (£13.9bn) Western European coffee market, according to Ross Colbert, an analyst at Rabobank - and while the coffee market in general is growing at 1.6% a year, capsule sales are outstripping them, growing 9% a year since 2011.
According to analysts, in the last year more than £112m-worth of coffee pods were sold in the UK, up by a third from 2014. Sales are expected to treble by 2020, at which point coffee capsule sales could overtake those of tea bags.
"They've been very disruptive to coffee and the way people drink coffee," Colbert says. "It allows a consumer to stock their pantry with enough variety to satisfy a family or social gathering, and always have something new to try. Some people get bored drinking the same coffee day after day."
But according to Colbert, "sustainability concerns have probably had a dampening effect on growth" in the coffee capsule sector. Even John Sylvan, the inventor of the K-cup single-serving coffee pod, America's biggest selling capsule, last year foreswore his invention. "I feel bad sometimes that I ever did it," he told one journalist.
Waste coffee capsulesImage copyrightAlamy
Image captionCritics say coffee capsules are not easily recyclable
Others share his concern. "We're doing our best in society to reduce greenhouse emissions, and in many ways we're making progress, but in certain ways we're going back 20 or 30 years," says Doug Leblanc, a coffee shop owner from Nova Scotia, Canada. "Making coffee in plastic pods that go in the garbage? There are other ways to make coffee that are better and have less impact on the environment."
Leblanc is one of the people behind the Kill the K-cup campaign. With a local film studio, the campaign produced a spoof monster movie last year in which a giant made of plastic coffee pods runs roughshod over a city. In Leblanc's hometown of Halifax, he believes, 200,000 or more capsules have been kept away from landfill by convincing residents to take their coffee in a different manner.
Yet coffee makers claim they are working to increase recycling of their capsules. The BBC contacted the makers of the four most popular capsule machines in the UK: Bosch, who make the Tassimo, Nescafe, who make the Dolce Gusto and Nespresso, and Phillips, makers of the Senseo machine. Phillips and Bosch referred the BBC to the companies who produced their pods, who did not respond.
Box of Dolce Gusto capsulesImage copyrightDolce Gusto
Nespresso said Hamburg's decision allowed them "to highlight the growing recognition of the vital importance of being sustainable in everything we do".
The company runs its own recycling programme, where it picks up used capsules for reuse. A company spokesperson said that it has in place the capacity to recycle over 80% of used capsules, with 14,000 dedicated capsule collection points in 31 countries, and it is aiming to increase this to 100% by 2020.
In Germany, many recycled capsules end up being used to make components for the automotive industry. The Nespresso spokesperson said: "We are frequently asked whether individual portions and the use of aluminium contradict sustainability - in our opinion, the opposite is the case."
They added that portioned coffee was a method to reduce water and coffee waste, and reduced the carbon footprint per cup.
"We commit to also doing more in terms of looking at new and increased ways to communicate to consumers," the spokesperson added, "making sure the messages around where and how to recycle - and the value thereof - are heard and understood."
Biodegradable capsules by Ethical Coffee Company (ECC) lie next to a ciup of coffee prior a press conference in Geneva, Switzerland, 23 March 2015Image copyrightEPA
Leblanc has his own suggestion to encourage recycling coffee pods: "We've put a deposit on pop and beer cans and bottles forever, so people return them and they can be dealt with appropriately," he says. "There's nothing like that on coffee pods."
An environmental analysis carried out by Quantis, a research company, for Nespresso found that around a fifth of the capsule's impact on climate change came from its packaging including production, assuming it were recycled properly. The analysis claimed that aluminium - used by Nespresso in its capsules - has less impact on the environment than comparable competitors, using plastic, starch or polylactic acid pods.
But that's missing the point, according to Piotr Barczak, waste policy officer at the European Environmental Bureau. "The point with coffee pods isn't about recycling - it's about cutting down on the amount of stuff that we need to throw away or recycle," he says.
coffee being prepared with the new Coffee Capsule System 'Expressi' of the discount supermarket chain AldiImage copyrightEPA
"Recycling should be the last resort when tackling waste, not the immediate solution," he adds.
There are novel alternatives to the plastic and aluminium coffee pod on the market. Eason Chow, a Singapore-based designer, proposed replacing the plastic cup with dissolvable sugar, much like a gumball. "The amount of packaging wastage is shocking," he said.
Last year Caffe Vergnano, an Italian producer, developed its own biopolymer capsule that can compost down naturally. And the Honest Coffee Company of New Zealand makes 100% biodegradable capsules made from plant-based fibres that are compatible with Nespresso machines, and compostable.
"Some companies are moving in the direction of making them compostable, but they're not the big companies," says Leblanc. And for good reason, reckons Rabobank analyst Colbert: "As long as the market is growing the way it is, the pressure to offer more sustainable alternatives may not be as great as it could be."

More from the Magazine

Coffee cup and beansImage copyrightiStock
Two billion cups of coffee are drunk around the world every day and 25 million families rely on growing coffee for a living. Over the past 15 years, consumption of the drink has risen by 43% - but researchers are warning that the world's most popular coffee, Arabica, is under threat.

「阿里山高山茶」

蔡英文 Tsai Ing-wen 和陳明文張花冠(小花)縣長

認識台灣茶,推廣茶文化
說起來有點害羞,我一直有喝咖啡和紅茶的習慣,但真正認識台灣茶和茶文化,是擔任民進黨主席之後,在陳明文和張花冠兩位嘉義前後任縣長的介紹下,才開始學習品茶識茶。
這幾年,在嘉義縣政府的努力下,「阿里山高山茶」已經名揚國際。不僅有詳細、可靠的認證制度,還細分成不同的茶種、茶區,幾乎可以比美法國勃根地的葡萄酒。這樣的台灣之光,也推薦給國人分享。
活動資訊: http://goo.gl/ZNRrxo

2016年2月18日 星期四

三清茶,"三清茶與三清茶甌 "

維基百科,自由的百科全書

梅花色不妖,佛手香且潔。松實味芳腴,三品殊清絕。烹以折腳鐺,沃之承筐雪。火候辯魚蟹,鼎煙迭生滅。越甌潑仙乳,氈廬適禪悅。五蘊淨大半,可悟不可說。馥馥兜羅遞,活活雲漿澈。偓佺遺可餐,林逋賞時別。懶舉趙州案,頗笑玉川譎。寒宵聽行漏,古月看懸玦。軟飽趁幾余,敲吟興無竭。
——乾隆《三清茶》詩。系其於乾隆十一年(1746)五台山回程時在定興遇雪,便收集雪花,並於氈帳中烹煮三清茶時所作。
嘗以雪水烹茶,沃梅花、佛手、松實啜之,名曰三清茶。紀之以詩,並命兩江陶工作茶甌,環系御製詩於甌外,即以貯茶,致為精雅,不讓宣德、成化舊瓷也。
——乾隆四十六年《詠嘉靖雕漆茶盤》詩的詩注。
三清茶乾隆帝最為喜愛的的飲品,是以梅花松實佛手為料,用泡製成的。「三清」是指三種泡茶的藥材,乾隆在其詩《三清茶》後注曰:「以雪水沃梅花、松實、佛手啜之,名曰三清」。乾隆愛此茶,不僅因為三清茶色、香、味清絕宜人,還可能是因乾隆認為三清各為清高節操之象徵。[1][2]
乾隆帝還數次舉辦「三清茶宴」,,目的在於「示惠聯情」,自乾隆八年起固定在重華宮,因此也稱重華宮茶宴。「三清茶宴」於每年正月初二至初十間擇日舉行,參加者多為詞臣,大學士九卿及內廷翰林。每次舉行時,須擇一宮廷時事為主題,群臣聯句吟詠。[3]
另有專為品飲此茗而御製的三清茶碗,樣式是乾隆親自製定。

參見[編輯]

參考資料[編輯]

  1. ^ 廖寶秀. 只取幽閒不取奢——乾隆茶室與茶器. 三聯新聞周刊.
  2. ^ 王愷. 中國茶道的嬗變:從唐宋到明清——專訪台北故宮博物院研究員廖寶秀. 三聯生活周刊.
  3. ^ 三清茶. 新浪博客. [2014-09-28].

"三清茶與三清茶甌 ",  揚之水,載【終朝採藍】北京:三聯,2008,pp.252-57

乾隆養生有道「三清茶」調養五臟| 新聞| TVBS

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Feb 5, 2014 - 何謂三清茶就是由梅花、佛手、松子,沖泡而成,主要能夠增強抵抗力,對五臟肝心脾肺腎,都有很好的保健效果。